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Buying a used guitar can be one of the best ways to get a serious instrument without paying new-guitar money.
It can also be a very expensive way to inherit somebody else's problems.
The trick isn't knowing everything about guitar repair. You just need to know what to look at before you hand over the money.
Quick Answer: How to Buy a Used Guitar
If you're standing in front of a used guitar and want the short version, inspect it in this order:
- Check the neck and headstock for cracks, twists, or serious bowing.
- Inspect the frets for excessive wear.
- Check neck relief and make sure the truss rod adjustment hasn't been abused.
- Inspect the body, neck joint, bridge area, and other structural points for cracks or repairs.
- Play every fret and listen for buzzing, dead notes, and choking.
- Plug it in and test every pickup, switch, knob, and the output jack.
- Inspect the bridge, tuners, nut, and other hardware.
- Look for modifications and verify the serial number and model.
- Compare the guitar with actual used-market prices.
- Leave enough money for a professional setup if it needs one.
That's the basic used guitar inspection checklist. Now let's look at each part in detail.
Who This Guide Is For
- Anyone buying a used electric guitar
- First-time used guitar buyers
- Players shopping on Reverb, Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, or locally
- Anyone wondering what to check when buying a used guitar
- Players trying to determine whether a used guitar is actually a good deal
- Anyone buying a used Fender, Gibson, PRS, Ibanez, ESP, Jackson, Epiphone, Squier, or similar guitar
Who This Is Not For
- Collectors searching for a specific vintage guitar where originality is everything
- Professional guitar technicians who already know how to perform a full inspection
- Buyers who have already had a qualified technician inspect the instrument
What to Bring When Inspecting a Used Guitar
You don't need to show up with an entire guitar-repair shop in your backpack.
For most used guitar inspections, I'd bring:
- A reliable tuner
- Your own guitar cable
- A pick
- A small flashlight
- Your phone for photos and serial-number research
- A small ruler or setup gauge if you know how to use one
If you're inspecting guitars regularly, a small guitar tool kit is worth having.
Ernie Ball Musician's Tool Kit
Best for: Buyers who want one compact kit for basic guitar measurements and adjustments.
The Ernie Ball Musician's Tool Kit includes a string cutter, peg winder, screwdriver, hex wrench set, ruler, cleaning supplies, and other basic maintenance tools. It's a much more useful thing to throw in the car than a giant toolbox when you're checking out a used guitar.
My take: This is the one I'd pick if you want a general-purpose guitar tool kit that can live in your gear bag.
1. Check the Neck First
The neck is the first thing I'd inspect on a used guitar.
Pick the guitar up and look down the neck from the headstock toward the bridge.
You're not trying to prove that the neck is perfectly straight. A certain amount of relief is normal. You're looking for anything obviously wrong.
Look for:
- Severe bowing
- Obvious twisting
- Uneven neck geometry
- Cracks around the neck joint
- Strange humps or dips
- Signs of a previous repair
A little adjustment is normal.
A neck that looks seriously twisted is not something I'd casually gamble on.
2. Inspect the Headstock
If you're looking at a Gibson-style guitar, slow down here.
Look at the front and back of the headstock. Pay close attention to the transition between the headstock and neck.
You're looking for:
- Cracks
- Glue residue
- Finish lines that look unusual
- Color differences around a repaired area
- Evidence of a previous break
A repaired headstock isn't automatically a bad guitar.
But it absolutely affects what I'd pay.
Ask the seller what happened, who repaired it, and whether there are photos of the original damage.
If the seller says "nothing happened" while you're staring at an obvious repair, I'd walk.
3. Check the Frets for Wear
Fret wear is one of the easiest problems to miss when you're excited about a guitar.
Look closely at the frets in the first few positions and around the areas where the previous owner played most often.
Look for:
- Flat spots across the tops of the frets
- Deep grooves
- Uneven fret height
- Loose fret ends
- Sharp fret ends sticking out from the fretboard
Some fret wear is completely normal on a used guitar.
The question is whether there's enough fret life left for you to play the guitar without immediately paying for a fret level or refret.
4. Check Neck Relief and the Truss Rod
You want to know whether the neck can be properly adjusted.
Don't start turning the truss rod just because you're curious. Randomly cranking on a truss rod is a great way to turn a simple inspection into an actual repair.
Instead, fret the strings and check the gap around the middle of the neck.
If the relief looks dramatically wrong, have a guitar technician inspect it.
Also look at the truss rod adjustment nut.
If it's rounded off, damaged, or appears to have been repeatedly abused, that's something I'd factor into the price.
5. Inspect the Body for Cracks and Repairs
Now inspect the body from every angle.
Don't just look at the front.
Check the back, sides, neck joint, bridge area, control cavity, and body edges.
Look for:
- Wood cracks
- Large impact damage
- Glue residue
- Refinished areas
- Cracks around the bridge
- Damage around screw holes
- Cracks around the neck pocket
Normal scratches aren't a problem. Structural damage is.
6. Check the Neck Joint
On a bolt-on guitar, inspect the neck pocket and the area around the mounting screws.
Look for cracks spreading away from the pocket, stripped screws, or anything suggesting the neck is moving when it shouldn't.
On a set-neck guitar, inspect the joint where the neck meets the body.
If you see a serious crack there, stop and investigate before buying.
7. Play Every Fret
This is one of the most useful tests you can perform.
Play every fret on every string.
You don't need to play a song. You're listening for problems.
- Dead notes
- Severe fret buzz
- Notes that choke during bends
- Isolated buzzing areas
- Major volume differences between notes
- Notes that don't ring clearly
Play the guitar unplugged first.
It's easier to hear mechanical buzzing when the amp isn't masking everything.
8. Test Every Pickup and Switch
Now plug the guitar into an amp.
Don't play one chord, hear sound, and decide the electronics are fine.
Test every position.
- Bridge pickup
- Middle pickup
- Neck pickup
- Pickup selector
- Volume controls
- Tone controls
- Coil-split switches
- Push-pull controls
- Phase switches
Turn the controls slowly and listen for crackling, cutting out, or intermittent signal.
A scratchy potentiometer isn't necessarily a deal breaker.
A pickup that completely cuts out is a different conversation.
9. Check the Output Jack
This takes about ten seconds.
Plug in your cable and gently move it while playing.
Listen for:
- Crackling
- Signal loss
- Intermittent sound
- A jack that physically moves inside the guitar
A loose jack is usually an easy repair.
It's still something you should know about before negotiating the price.
10. Inspect the Bridge and Saddles
Look closely at the bridge.
Check for corrosion, stripped adjustment screws, missing hardware, damaged mounting posts, and signs of previous modifications.
If it's a tremolo guitar, test the tremolo carefully.
Move it and see whether the guitar comes reasonably close to its original tuning.
On a Floyd Rose-style locking tremolo, inspect the locking nut, bridge, fine tuners, and all the required hardware.
A complicated tremolo system can be fantastic when maintained and miserable when neglected.
11. Check the Tuning Machines
Turn every tuner.
They should feel reasonably smooth and consistent.
Watch for:
- Excessive looseness
- Grinding
- Slipping
- Obvious damage
Don't assume old tuners need replacement just because they're old.
If they hold tune and work properly, leave them alone.
12. Inspect the Nut
Look at the nut from above and from the side.
Check for:
- Cracks
- Loose material
- Deeply worn string slots
- Strings sitting unusually low
- Obvious homemade modifications
A worn nut is usually repairable.
But a badly cut nut can make a perfectly good guitar feel terrible.
13. Check the Intonation
Tune the guitar and compare the open strings with the notes at the 12th fret.
You're not trying to perform a professional bench setup in somebody's driveway.
You're looking for anything obviously wrong.
If the open string is in tune but the octave is dramatically sharp or flat, the guitar may need an intonation adjustment.
That's not necessarily a reason to walk away.
The question is whether the saddles have enough adjustment range to fix it.
14. Check String Height and Playability
Now simply play the guitar.
Does it feel good?
Are the strings extremely high?
Are they so low that every note buzzes?
A bad setup doesn't automatically mean you've found a bad guitar.
One of the great things about buying used is that you can sometimes buy an excellent instrument that simply needs a proper setup.
For buyers who want to measure action rather than guess, a dedicated setup gauge is a useful addition to the inspection kit.
MusicNomad Precision Setup Gauge Set
Best for: Buyers who want to measure string height, neck relief, and other setup measurements instead of relying entirely on feel.
The MusicNomad Precision Setup Gauge Set is designed specifically for guitar and bass setup work. It includes multiple measurement tools and is a good choice if you're going to inspect or maintain several guitars.
My take: You don't need this for your first used-guitar inspection, but if you buy used gear regularly, it can pay for itself by helping you understand exactly what you're looking at.
15. Look for Modifications
Modified guitars can be fantastic.
They can also be somebody else's unfinished project.
Ask whether the guitar still has its original:
- Pickups
- Bridge
- Tuners
- Pickguard
- Electronics
- Switches
- Knobs
If possible, look inside the control cavity.
Messy soldering, hacked-out cavities, disconnected wires, and questionable modifications don't automatically make the guitar bad.
They should, however, affect what you're willing to pay.
16. Verify the Serial Number
Don't blindly trust the model name in an online listing.
Check the serial number and compare the guitar with the manufacturer's information whenever possible.
Make sure the guitar actually matches the model being advertised.
This matters especially with older guitars, limited editions, model-year changes, and expensive instruments.
For a high-dollar purchase, I'd want to verify the serial number and ownership history as much as reasonably possible.
17. Check the Guitar's Actual Weight
Weight matters more than a lot of guitar specifications.
If you're buying a Les Paul, for example, don't assume every Les Paul weighs the same.
The same goes for Stratocasters.
Actual weight matters more than the general reputation of the model.
If you're buying locally, weigh the guitar if you can.
18. Bring a Tuner
A tuner might be the most useful single accessory you can bring to a used-guitar inspection.
You can quickly check whether the guitar is holding pitch, compare open strings with the 12th fret, and get a better feel for the instrument's basic setup.
D'Addario NS Micro Universal Tuner
Best for: A tiny tuner that can live in your guitar case or inspection bag.
The D'Addario NS Micro Universal is a compact clip-on tuner with a reversible display and adjustable positioning. It's small enough that there's really no good excuse for showing up to inspect a used guitar without a tuner.
My take: This is the kind of inexpensive guitar accessory I'd keep permanently in the case rather than remembering to grab it every time.
19. Check the Case and Included Hardware
Ask exactly what comes with the guitar.
- Original hard case
- Gig bag
- Tremolo arm
- Truss rod wrench
- Locking tremolo tools
- Original pickups
- Original electronics
- Manufacturer paperwork
- Other model-specific parts
A missing tremolo arm might be annoying.
A missing original case might affect resale value.
Missing original pickups can matter considerably if you're buying a collectible or vintage instrument.
20. Compare the Price With the Real Used Market
This is where I see buyers make a huge mistake.
The seller's asking price isn't automatically the guitar's value.
Search for the same model and compare several examples.
Look at:
- Model year
- Condition
- Fret wear
- Modifications
- Repairs
- Included case
- Current demand
Don't base your entire opinion on the three most expensive listings you can find.
You're trying to determine what comparable guitars actually sell for.
Used Guitar Inspection Checklist
Save this section before you go look at a guitar.
- ☐ Inspect neck alignment
- ☐ Check headstock for cracks or repairs
- ☐ Inspect fret wear
- ☐ Check neck relief
- ☐ Inspect truss rod adjustment area
- ☐ Check body for structural cracks
- ☐ Inspect neck joint
- ☐ Play every fret
- ☐ Test every pickup
- ☐ Test every switch
- ☐ Test every volume and tone control
- ☐ Test output jack
- ☐ Inspect bridge and saddles
- ☐ Test tremolo if equipped
- ☐ Check tuning machines
- ☐ Inspect nut
- ☐ Check intonation
- ☐ Evaluate string height
- ☐ Look for modifications
- ☐ Verify serial number
- ☐ Confirm included hardware
- ☐ Compare used-market prices
- ☐ Budget for a setup
Used Guitar Red Flags
These are the problems that would make me slow down or walk away.
- Major neck twist
- Serious headstock or neck crack
- Structural body crack
- Damaged or maxed-out truss rod
- Extremely severe fret wear
- Bridge mounting damage
- Unexplained modifications
- Serial number problems
- Seller refusing a reasonable inspection
A scratch isn't a red flag.
A replaced pickup isn't automatically a red flag.
A ding in the finish isn't a red flag.
Structural problems and dishonest descriptions are what I'd worry about.
What Cosmetic Damage Is Acceptable?
For a player-grade used guitar, I'd happily accept scratches and finish wear if the instrument is mechanically solid.
That's one of the biggest advantages of buying used.
You don't have to pay new-guitar money for a guitar that's already picked up a few battle scars.
Collectors are different. On vintage or collectible guitars, originality and condition can have a much bigger effect on value.
Buying a Used Guitar Online vs. In Person
Buying In Person
In-person buying gives you one huge advantage:
You can actually play the guitar.
Use that advantage.
Check the neck, frets, electronics, weight, comfort, and general condition before negotiating.
Buying Online
Online buying requires better questions and better photos.
Ask the seller for clear pictures of:
- Front and back
- Headstock front and back
- Neck joint
- Frets
- Bridge
- Control cavity
- Serial number
- Any repaired or damaged area
Don't feel bad about asking for additional photos.
You're potentially spending hundreds or thousands of dollars.
If a seller gets angry because you want to inspect the guitar properly, that's useful information.
Should You Buy a Used Guitar With a Repair?
Sometimes.
A repaired output jack, replaced nut, fret job, or upgraded pickups isn't necessarily a problem.
A badly repaired neck or headstock is a different story.
Ask:
- What happened?
- Who performed the repair?
- When was it repaired?
- Has the guitar remained stable?
- Are there photos of the damage?
- Does the price reflect the repair?
Don't automatically reject a repaired guitar. Don't automatically trust one either.
How Much Should You Offer for a Used Guitar?
Don't automatically throw out a lowball offer just because somebody online said you're supposed to negotiate.
Start with the real market value.
Then adjust for:
- Fret wear
- Repairs
- Modifications
- Missing hardware
- Missing case
- Cosmetic condition
- Required setup work
A clean guitar at a fair price doesn't need a ridiculous offer.
A guitar with legitimate problems should not be priced like a clean example.
The Biggest Used Guitar Buying Mistakes
- Buying based on looks alone
- Ignoring fret wear
- Not checking the neck
- Not testing every electronic control
- Assuming modifications automatically add value
- Trusting the seller's model description without checking
- Comparing asking prices instead of actual market values
- Spending every dollar on the guitar
- Skipping the setup
- Getting emotionally attached before inspecting it
That last one is probably the biggest.
If you've already decided you're taking the guitar home, you're going to find reasons to explain away problems.
Inspect first. Fall in love second.
My Used Guitar Buying Process
If I were buying a used guitar tomorrow, this is exactly how I'd approach it:
- Research the exact model.
- Compare several used examples.
- Inspect the guitar before plugging it in.
- Check the neck, frets, body, and hardware.
- Play every fret.
- Plug it into an amp.
- Test every pickup, switch, knob, and jack.
- Ask about repairs and modifications.
- Verify the serial number.
- Check what accessories are included.
- Calculate the cost of any needed repairs or setup.
- Make an offer based on the actual condition.
That's really all you need.
You don't have to turn a $500 used guitar purchase into a forensic investigation.
You just need to make sure the expensive parts are healthy.
Frequently Asked Questions
What should I check first when buying a used guitar?
Check the neck, headstock, frets, and structural condition first. These areas can reveal expensive problems that are much harder to fix than cosmetic damage or a scratchy potentiometer.
How do I know if a used guitar has a bad neck?
Look down the neck for severe bowing or twisting and then play every fret. Serious buzzing, dead spots, unusual geometry, or a neck that cannot be properly adjusted are reasons to have a guitar technician inspect it.
How much fret wear is too much on a used guitar?
Minor fret wear is normal. Deep grooves, major flat spots, uneven frets, or notes that choke can mean the guitar needs significant fret work. Factor that cost into the purchase price.
Should I buy a used guitar with a repaired headstock?
You can, but the repair needs to be structurally sound and the price needs to reflect it. Ask who performed the repair, what caused the damage, and whether the guitar has remained stable.
How do I test a used guitar's electronics?
Plug it into an amplifier and test every pickup, switch, volume control, tone control, push-pull function, and the output jack. Listen for crackling, signal loss, and intermittent operation.
Should I buy a used guitar online?
Yes, provided the seller has a good reputation, the listing has detailed photos and an accurate description, and you have appropriate buyer protection. Ask for additional pictures of anything that isn't clear.
How do I know what a used guitar is worth?
Compare multiple examples of the same model and look at actual market sales when available. Adjust for condition, modifications, repairs, accessories, and the included case.
Is cosmetic damage a deal breaker on a used guitar?
Usually not. Scratches, small dents, and finish wear are often perfectly acceptable on a player-grade guitar. Structural cracks and serious repairs deserve much more attention.
Should I get a professional setup after buying a used guitar?
Usually, yes. A setup can address neck relief, action, intonation, and other playability issues. Just remember that a setup cannot magically fix serious structural damage.
What tools should I bring when inspecting a used guitar?
A tuner, guitar cable, pick, flashlight, and your phone are enough for most inspections. If you regularly buy used guitars, adding a general guitar tool kit and setup gauge makes more detailed inspections easier.
Final Recommendation
Don't buy a used guitar because it's cheap. Buy it because the guitar is healthy, the condition is honestly represented, and the price makes sense.
Cosmetic wear doesn't bother me much. Neither do upgraded pickups, replacement tuners, or a guitar that simply needs a setup.
What bothers me is undisclosed structural damage, severe neck problems, questionable repairs, and sellers who won't let you inspect the instrument properly.
If the neck is good, the frets are usable, the electronics work, the hardware is solid, and the price matches the condition, a used guitar can be an incredible buy.
Inspect the expensive problems first. Negotiate the smaller ones second.
And remember the simplest rule:
If the guitar doesn't feel right in your hands, keep looking.
More Guitar Buying Guides
- Guitar Buying Guide
- Fender Stratocaster Buying Guide
- What a $500 Guitar Budget Gets You
- Used Music Gear Complete Buying Guide
- Stop Overpaying for Guitars
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