Most guitar buying guides read like a spec sheet with a paragraph of opinion bolted onto the end. They list neck scale lengths and fret counts and wood species without telling you what any of it actually means for how the guitar feels under your hands and sounds through an amp.
This is a different kind of guitar buying guide. It is the one that tells you what actually matters, what you are mostly just paying for the name on the headstock, and how to find the right guitar for what you play without spending more than you need to.
The used guitar market on Reverb is where most of these recommendations land — it is where value lives at every price point and where the best deals on quality instruments consistently show up.
Body Style: What It Changes and What It Does Not
The body style of an electric guitar affects its weight, its balance on a strap, its resonance, and how it feels sitting down or standing up. A Les Paul is heavier and balances differently than a Stratocaster. A semi-hollow body resonates more acoustically than a solid body and responds differently to gain.
Body style does not dramatically change your plugged-in tone the way the internet argues it does. The pickups, the amp, and the player's hands account for the vast majority of electric guitar tone. Buy the body style that feels right for how you play and how long you want to hold it.
Neck Profile: The Thing That Affects Playability Most
The neck profile — the shape of the back of the neck in cross section — is one of the most personal aspects of guitar feel and one of the least talked about in buying guides. A chunky C or D profile fills the hand differently than a thin modern C or a V profile. Players with larger hands often prefer a fuller neck. Players who wrap their thumb over the top of the neck for chord work sometimes prefer a slimmer profile.
The only way to know what you prefer is to play guitars with different neck profiles. If you are buying used online, look at the specs carefully and read reviews from players who describe their hand size and playing style.
Scale Length: What the Numbers Mean
Scale length is the distance between the nut and the saddle — effectively the length of the vibrating string. A Fender Stratocaster has a 25.5 inch scale length. A Gibson Les Paul has a 24.75 inch scale length. That three-quarter inch difference changes string tension, which changes how the guitar feels to bend and how it responds to picking.
Longer scale means more tension at the same tuning and string gauge, which produces a tighter, snappier feel. Shorter scale means less tension, which makes bending easier and gives the guitar a slightly warmer, looser feel. Neither is better. They produce different playing experiences and different tonal characteristics that suit different styles.
Pickups: The Part That Actually Shapes Your Electric Tone
Of everything in an electric guitar, pickups contribute most to the plugged-in sound. Single coil pickups are bright and clear with a characteristic snap but pick up electrical interference as a hum. Humbuckers cancel that interference and produce a warmer, thicker sound with more output. P-90s sit between the two — more output and body than a standard single coil, less noise, but a different character than a humbucker.
The pickup type should match your genre and amp. Single coils into a clean amp produce the classic Fender tone that works for country, blues, funk, and clean indie. Humbuckers into a pushed amp produce the classic rock and metal tone. P-90s into a slightly broken-up amp produce a cutting, aggressive mid-range that works well for punk, garage rock, and blues.
Fret Size: Small Detail, Real Impact
Fret size affects how the guitar plays in a subtle but real way. Taller frets — jumbo or medium jumbo — require less finger pressure to fret a note cleanly because your fingertip contacts the fret before it contacts the wood. This makes bending easier and reduces hand fatigue during long playing sessions. Smaller vintage frets feel different under the fingers and suit players who prefer a closer connection to the fretboard.
New vs Used: Where the Value Actually Is
A new guitar depreciates the moment you buy it. A used guitar has already taken that depreciation hit and is now priced closer to what it is actually worth as a playing instrument rather than as a retail product. At most price points, buying used on Reverb gets you more guitar for the same money than buying new — sometimes significantly more.
The one reason to buy new is warranty coverage and the confidence of knowing the instrument has not been modified or damaged before it reached you. For most players at most price points, the used market is the smarter financial decision.
The Thing Nobody Tells You
Whatever guitar you buy, get it set up by a tech before you judge it. Factory setups are inconsistent across every brand at every price point. A guitar that plays stiffly out of the box might play beautifully with a proper nut slot adjustment, truss rod tweak, and action setup. A $50 professional setup is the last item on every guitar purchase checklist and the one most people skip.
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